As with many Italian words the simple definition does not capture the essence of the word. This is true of the word passeggiata. The translation literally means to stroll or to walk. It is true that technically that is "la passeggiata” (the stroll). Yet, la passeggiata is so much more than that. In fact, la passeggiata is an event, a tradition and a pillar of Italian history. It is a part of Italian culture so deeply ingrained that if you are in most Italian cities in the late afternoon and early evening, especially on Saturday and Sunday, you will witness la passeggiata.
La passeggiata is strolling with no particular purpose other than to socialize, to see and to be seen, to stay together and to digest. The streets and piazzas throughout Italy fill with people, generally in their nicer attire, who stroll slowly along the streets, stopping to say hello to acquaintances, to share some news or even a little gossip. Women link arms as if in a parade as they walk together while the men follow behind often discussing politics or sports. Laughter and smiles fill the streets as the energy of the community grows.
The custom of la passeggiata is evident in culture as far back as the ancient romans. Porticos were built in the ancient cities not just for commerce but also for the citizens to be able to stroll without being bothered by the sun, rain or snow. The evening stroll was also traditionally a time for young unwed women to be taken out by the family, looking their best of course, to be seen by the young men in town. The young women were encouraged to be a little flirty to attract the attention of the young men.
When I visited Positano over 20 years ago we noticed every evening, along the extremely narrow and curvy street, a woman walking with her daughter. It seemed really dangerous to me given the traffic and the lack of any protection from the cliffs they were walking along. My driver explained to me that in fact the woman took her daughter, who was getting dangerously close to being past the marrying age (his words), every day along the road to try to find a husband for her daughter among the men who would be driving by at the hour. It struck me as such an odd thing to do until I understood the cultural history of the act of la passeggiata.
During the week people often return home from work, change their clothes and then head out to stroll through the city greeting friends, window shopping and stopping for an aperitivo (a pre-dinner drink and light snack). On the weekends it is normal for la passeggiata to begin after lunch with families both small and large walking together. This continues throughout the city until dinner time. On the weekends taking long walks together is also seen as good for digestion after a long heavy meal.
There is a term in Italian “Fare bella figura” which means to present oneself in the best manner possible. It does not only refer to clothing, and physical appearance but also in one’s manners and mannerisms. During passeggiata when on display for the whole town to see this extremely important part of Italian culture can be witnessed and admired. The sense of community and being together creates an infectious energy. The joy on the faces of people as they recognize each other, share stories, and laughter is one of the most beautiful things in Italian culture.
Around the world we try to put our fingers on exactly what it is about Italian culture that makes it so special. To observe la passeggiata it is easy to observe that for Italians their joy, energy, warmth and positivity comes from being together, from being outside in their communities. No matter the topic of discussion, or perhaps just strolling in silence together, the point is to be together. There is a comfort in knowing you are part of a community, that people are happy to see you, and to spend time with you. Of course, there are health benefits to walking and maybe that is part of it, but overall it seems to be the sense that loneliness slides away with each “Buona sera” and “Come stai”. Being acknowledged as part of a community forms a connection and that connection creates a sense of belonging which makes each of us feel seen. This is the essence of Italian culture, the openness and belonging.
If you would like to learn more about la passeggiata there is a great book you can read:
The Passeggiata and Popular Culture in an Italian Town, Giovanna Delnegro
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