This medieval city sits atop a volcanic cliff, watching over Umbria below. Its history is varied, its people are warm and its winding streets are filled with wonder. Orvieto is magic, it is romance and it is peace. Orvieto is far enough away from anywhere else it feels like there is no other world, yet it is close enough to everything you never feel out of touch. Perhaps it is this separation which makes the city feel miles apart from reality, and encourages the locals to be more artistic, creative and welcoming.
Orvieto is an artistic town. If you are looking for Italian artisans, for streets filled with quirky art installations and cafe’s brimming with art then Orvieto is the town to visit. It packs so much personality and creativity into its small town one can not get bored, or run out of things to see.
Orvieto is located in Umbria, about an hour and a half north of Rome or two hours south of Florence. Rising up from the volcanic rock below a massive cathedral reaches towards the sky. Immediately Orvieto impresses, before you even enter the city center.
When you arrive and make your way through the more industrial part of Orvieto you arrive at parking lots where you can park your car and then make your way to the historic city center “centro storico” by elevator, escalator or on foot. If you take the train to Orvieto or just prefer a bit more adventure you can also take a funicular, or buses from the newer part of the city to the medieval center.
Orvieto is filled with restaurants, piazzas, winding streets, quaint shops, bars and galleries. Unlike most other Italian towns the piazzas are not lined with tables and umbrellas from the local restaurants. In fact most dining in Orvieto is done inside. In large part this is due to the narrowness and shortness of most of the streets in Orvieto. These small streets are part of the romance of Orvieto. They are full of architectural beauty, flowering vines, and tiny courtyards.
While the piazzas are not filled with restaurants and cafes they are usually bustling with locals catching up with friends and family, enjoying fresh air, watching their kids play, or shopping. It is exactly as you would expect in an Italian village.
A great way to spend your time in Orvieto is to walk through the streets discovering craftsmen making shoes by hand, ceramicists painting their wares which recently emerged from their kilns, and artisans making beautiful tableware from local olive wood. There are tiny little markets, clothing stores, jewelry stores, and adorable kids stores scattered along the streets, each one showing off the incredible display abilities of the staff.
The Duomo (cathedral) in Orvieto is incredibly special. The 14th century facade is a masterpiece of mosaics, carved alabaster, bronze statuary and stone. The gold mosaics glimmer in the sun as it moves across the sky. Upon entering the duomo one may feel a little let down after the extravagant exterior. The striped stone work which makes up the structure is nice but simple compared to the facade. However, as you wander further into the church it is easy to understand why this church is so special. The two side capellas are painted from top to bottom with the stories of the bible including the damnation of revelations, and heaven and hell. It is an incredibly symbolic and overwhelming experience to take in this artwork which surrounds you as you enter the space.
Next door to the duomo is an archaeology museum which is worth visiting to enjoy the discoveries made over the last 100 years. It tells an incredible story not only of Orvieto but also the country surrounding it. Walk over to the lookout area close to the museum and take in the view below which is a landscape dotted with Italian cyprus, Tuscan farm villas and olive trees. It is the view of Italian dreams.
Across the piazza you can buy tickets to take an Orvieto Underground tour. The tour is a fascinating experience that takes you back to 2500 years ago when they started carving under the city. The citizens of Orvieto realized if there was a long war going on where they became stranded in their town protecting themselves they could run out of water. This started a digging campaign which lasted until the 20th century. What started as wells barely big enough to fit a human turned into tunnels storing wine and other things, including pigeons who nested there and provided food for the locals. Last century the citizens of Orvieto realized they couldn’t keep digging or else they would compromise the foundation of the town and so work was stopped.
If you have more than a day to spend in Orvieto I would highly recommend doing so. To pass through quickly in a day is missing a piece of the true Italy.
For other travel inspiration around Italy make sure to read our other blog posts.
A selection of wood vases and sculptures from the region close to Orvieto.
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