Palermo is a city filled with sites, smells, flavors, sounds and textures. Each experience builds upon the next to create a city so vibrant, so full of passion and energy it is impossible to not be affected.
The Sicilians will tell you with a great deal of passion that they are not Italian, they are Sicilian. It is not meant as a slight to Italians from the mainland but simply a matter of pride in their island, their heritage and their culture. If you visit a city on the mainland of Italy and a city in Sicily you will understand the difference almost immediately. The mentality, the architecture, the food, and attitudes are different from the mainland of Italy. The Sicilians are proud of their history and they know what they have is special. It is the very reason why a trip to Italy is not complete without a stop in Palermo.
Palermo is special. Somehow this city of 633,000 people manages to still feel like a village. The city center is easy to get around in, things are a maximum walk of 20 minutes away from each other. In a day you can see the Palermo Cathedral, Teatro Massimo, a food market, the Quattro Canti, the church of the Gesù (if you don’t have much time in Palermo). But to fully experience Palermo you should take the time to sit, eat, drink some local wine, people watch, and savor the moment.
I have to admit my trip consisted of a lot of savoring. I spent two mornings in the food markets, wandering through the streets, tasting the food and marveling at the vendors as they yell into the streets all of their daily offerings. They banter between each other and graciously offer samples to visitors walking through. The stalls are filled with fish, octopus, arancini balls, cannoli, spices, capers, olives, and specialty dishes of vegetables, pasta and seafood. Fresh pomegranate juice and orange juice are pressed and served to thirsty travelers, reveling in the energy that oozes from every square meter. The tradition of the food markets goes back to the beginning of time and can not be missed if you are to experience the true culture of Sicily and Palermo.
The architecture of Palermo is often a layering of each different chapter in Sicilian history. Arabic, Baroque, Norman and Gothic. Each layer tells a story. The Teatro Massimo, the third largest theater in Europe and the largest in Italy is dripping in gorgeous affreschi (frescoes), detailed woodwork, and stunning light fixtures. From the Theater it is an easy walk to the Quattro Canti, a famous intersection in the city center where each corner is adorned with stunning Baroque statues and carvings. It is filled to the brim with people marveling over the giant statues, each watching over the convergence of the city center into one grand Piazza (square). From there a short walk to the Cathedral of Palermo is an experience in itself. The street is packed with souvenir shops, fresh pomegranate juice carts, and local food to eat on the go. It is one of the busiest streets in Palermo so be prepared.
Arriving at the Cathedral of Palermo offers more space and an absolute delight for anyone interested in architecture. The beautiful green spaces offer a respite from the crowded street. This is one of the best examples of the ease at which Sicilians layer architectural styles to create a perfect building. The brown stones contrast perfectly with the green space and are subtle enough to not overpower the stunning interior of the cathedral.
One of the most impressive places to see in Palermo is the Church of Gesù. Without a doubt it is one of the best examples of Baroque churches in all of Europe. Every square meter is adorned with exceptional craftsmanship. The white cherubs, complicated marble inlay and gold leaf come together to create a church so exceptional it is impossible not to leave awestruck. I find it hard to describe, in fact I think there are no words which can accurately evoke the emotion you feel when inside this church. It must be experienced.
Outside of the city another delight awaits in the town of Monreale. A taxi ride, or bus trip winds through the city of Palermo and then up a hill, surrounded by spectacular views, ending at the quaint town of Monreale. Here the Church of Monreale stands proudly offering visitors a marvelous example of Norman architecture. Inside you are treated with affreschi, beautiful woodwork on the ceiling, stunning art and one of the best Arabic courtyards in Europe. Each column in the courtyard is adorned with different patterns, mosaics and colors which together create an architectural treasure.
A trip to Palermo is not complete without a Pistachio gelato, an arancini ball, a cannoli and a visit to one of their famous pastry shops. Via Principe di Belmonte is home to Spinnato, one of the best pastry shops in Palermo which became an instant favorite of mine, in part due to the location. The pedestrian street, lined with trees, offers the perfect respite from the bustling city. It has been in business since 1860, so it is an institution in Palermo and one frequented by locals. Make a point to visit, to grab a glass of wine or a pastry and an espresso. When you are finished, meander down the street to a fantastic restaurant, Oste e Pizza.
There is so much more to see and do in Palermo, in three days it is impossible to see it all. I think this is fortunate because it demands another visit to uncover all this gorgeous Sicilian city has to offer.
We would love to hear your recommendations if you have been to Palermo!
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